Tubular Exhaust Manifold

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Tubular Exhaust Manifold
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Fuel by itself is of no use whatsoever: it needs oxygen from the air outside in order to burn. At the most basic level, this happens its own accord: as the piston falls during the induction stroke, air rushes in past the open inlet valve to fill the expanding space. Then, when the compression and power strokes are complete, the exhaust valve opens and the rising piston pushes the exhaust gas out ready for a fresh charge of clean air.

In practice, though, the engine needs an air filter to stop dirt, moisture and bits of rubbish being sucked into its cylinders, and needs an exhaust system to dispose of the hot exhaust gases safely and quietly. To save having a separate filter and exhaust pipe for each cylinder of a multi-cylinder engine the incoming air is fed to the cylinders through tubular structures called inlet manifolds, and the exhaust gases are carried away through similar structures called the exhaust manifolds.

Air filters

Unlike their cousins that power tractors and earth-moving machinery, marine diesels usually operate in a relatively clean environment: there's little danger of them having to contend with straw, dust or roadside litter. This means that their air filters can be relatively simple, so some engines operate perfectly well for years with little more than a metal box with a few baffles in it.

Most, however, have something a little more sophisticated, involving either wire gauze or porous paper.

Paper tends to restrict the air flow, so to make up for this its area has to be increased by being folded into a concertina shape. It's also difficult to clean, so once a paper filter becomes clogged it has to be replaced with a new one.

Wire gauze doesn't restrict the air flow as much, but it is less effective because the gaps between the strands of wire are bigger than those between the fibres of paper. To counter this problem - and to minimise corrosion - wire gauze filters need to be dipped in oil from time to time, so that dust sticks to them instead of passing straight through.

Exhaust systems

When it comes to exhaust systems, the boot is on the other foot: road vehicles and agricultural machinery have an easy time of it. Their engines are in compartments that are open to the atmosphere but sealed away from their drivers and passengers, so all that's required is a pipe connected to the exhaust manifold, with a few baffles to reduce the noise. A few marine installations adopt a similar 'dry' exhaust system, usually in the form of an exhaust pipe sticking straight up from the engine compartment, with a weighted flap to stop rain or spray running down inside and heat resistant lagging to minimise the risk of fire or burns.

For pleasure craft, though, wet exhaust systems are pretty well standard, with water from the engine's cooling system used to cool the exhaust gas. The water is mixed with the exhaust gas in the injection bend, where it almost immediately turns into steam but in doing so reduces the temperature of the exhaust gases from almost 500° C to about 70° C - cool enough to allow flexible tubing and GRP to be used for the rest of the exhaust system.

At that reduced temperature, the steam condenses back into water. That is why the mixing takes place in a bend: it protects the engine against the possibility of the cooling water running back through the system and into the cylinders.

If the engine is below the waterline, or very close to it, however, the injection bend alone is not enough: there's a danger that water already in the exhaust might set up a siphon effect that would allow sea water from outside to make its way back through the exhaust system and into the engine. To stop this, many boats have an extra loop in the exhaust system, known as a swan-neck. To guard against the possibility of waves pushing water up the exhaust pipe, some boats have a one-way flap covering the end of the pipe where it emerges from the hull; on some sailing yachts you may even find a hand-operated gate valve that seals the exhaust pipe completely when the engine is not being used.

The vital thing about any exhaust system that it must not restrict the flow of exhaust gases beyond a certain limit, because if exhaust can't get out of the cylinders, there will be no room for fresh air to get in. The effect is exactly the same as if the air filter were clogged: starved of oxygen, the engine will not be able to burn its fuel, so it will lose power and produce black smoke.

More power

Any engine is simply a device for converting the energy released from burning fuel into mechanical power. None of them are very good at it: well over 60 per cent of energy released from the fuel is expended as heat and vibration, rather than as use mechanical work. Engine designers are continually working to improve efficiency but the fact remains that the power an engine can produce will always be limited by the rate at which it can burn fuel.

boatpartsdatabase.com has lots of resources for the boating trade and public alike.

The web is a vast source of information. Boatpartsdatabase collects the leisure marine industry into one huge database of contacts. When it comes to boat engines and gearboxes, Lancing Marine and the comprehensive service they offer to trade and public are an excellent example.

Engine Repairs

Engine Running Hot or Overheating….

 

As you know, this is a broad area to discuss because of so many factors that can cause an Engine to Run hot or Overheat. Let's get started.

For this Article, we'll keep it to Freshwater Cooled Inboard, Inboard/Outboard gasoline engines…..but most of the information can also relate to Diesels.

Let's open the hatches and take a look….There are several components (parts) to the Cooling System.

 

1. Belts and Hoses

2. Saltwater thru-hull fitting

3. Saltwater pump (has rubber impeller)

4. Heat Exchanger (Freshwater cooling)

5. Engine Water pump (freshwater)

6. Thermostat

7. Antifreeze

 

Let's go over each component/part and see what can cause your Engine to Run hot or Overheat… It could be one thing that is causing the problem or a combination.

Belts and Hoses:

Sometimes it is as simple as adjusting your fan belts. One fan belt turns your Saltwater pump, another turns your Freshwater pump…one fan belt should not turn both. The fan belt should sit towards the top of the pulley groove, not sunken within it…a sign that the belt is worn and has used up it's useful life. Change any worn fan belt and adjust to tighten to manufacturers specs. It should have about a ½ inch of play when pushing down or up on the fan belt. With new and/or well adjusted fan belts, the pump pulley will now turn more efficiently with no slipping and pump more water through your engine.

Your Cooling System Hoses should not have any leaks or be bloated. They should feel firm so the flow of water in the hose is not deformed or restricted in anyway. Again this brings more volume of water throughout your Engine, cooling it down. Don't forget to check your hose clamps and tighten where necessary.

Note: Loose Fan Belts, distorted/bloated Hoses can cause water flow restrictions. At higher speeds and rpms, the Engine creates more heat and.additional cooling power is needed. If you have slipping fan belts and distorted hoses to lower cooling water flow, you can bet that your Temperature gauge is going to keep rising where you don't want it..

Saltwater thru-hull fitting:

Your Thru-hull Saltwater Intake of course should work. The ball valve should move easily and the hose should have a firm feel to it. If the sides squeezes in too easily, the Saltwater pump it goes to can collapse the hose to cut off water flow…even if it collapses part way, this restriction will affect your Engine cooling and keep your engine Temperature up. So make sure the hose is good. The Thru-hull fitting on the underside of the boat has a scoop with some grating on it to keep larger objects from getting sucked in. What I usually do if I have an Engine running hot or Overheating, is to test it out and clean it. On smaller boats, you can get underneath to clean the grating. If your Thru-hull fitting ball valve is working properly, I close the Seacock (Ball valve), remove the hose and open the Seacock to see the amount of flow…It should be a gusher (have your wooden plug close by for safety). If the amount of water coming in is questionable, I usually close the Seacock, attach a garden hose to it and turn it on. This is reverse pressure and will clean up that grate underneath somewhat…turn the Seacock on and off a few times to help blow off any growth on it.

Note: You have just checked the water flow thru the Thru-Hull fitting, (hopefully good flow)…checked the hose for firmness that goes to your Saltwater pump…Looking good!

Saltwater pump (has rubber impeller):

Now we get to the Saltwater pump that flows the saltwater to your Freshwater Heat Exchanger (cools your antifreeze). Check for any leakage externally. Now let's check your rubber impeller…I know you might have done it recently, but read on. Remove the rubber impeller and examine each rubber blade. It should have no cracks in it as you bend them one way then the other. There should be no splits anywhere either. You can compare it to a new one you have onboard….If you don't have a new spare impeller, it is cheap insurance if you do…The rubber impeller should not move separate to the metal center…it should be well attached. Back in the pump itself, there are two holes..one from your intake hose (thru-hull fitting) and one going to your Heat Exchanger. Look closely into those holes…some of your past impellers might have lost a blade and lodged in the hole or further down. Inspect carefully and remove any foreign pieces and use a garden hose to water jet anything else out…it would be good to have both hoses detached and make sure the Seacock is off. You also have a beveled piece of brass in the pump to squeeze the blades and create suction. Make sure it's there of course and that it is smooth. If it is torn up, it will do the same to your rubber impeller. Have a good gasket seal on your impeller cover plate (don't want to suck air) and add some grease to your Shaft grease cap. Make sure when you tighten the cap, grease is getting to the shaft. It will lubricate your Shaft and Shaft seal so you will not leak…If the leak persists out of the shaft, a new shaft seal may have to be installed.

Note: With good flow to and out of your Saltwater pump we're looking good.

Heat Exchanger (Freshwater cooling):

Your Heat Exchanger is generally tubular, having two separate areas within it. One area for the Saltwater, water flow and the other area for the Freshwater flow. The Freshwater (water/antifreeze mix) is hot from absorbing the heat within the engine. As the Freshwater flows thru the Heat Exchanger, the cool Saltwater picks up the Freshwater heat, cooling the Freshwater down so it is ready to go back thru the Engine to pick-up some more heat. The Saltwater that is now hot from the Freshwater flows out of the Heat Exchanger into the end of the Exhaust Manifold to cool the Real Hot Exhaust as it leaves the Engine into the exhaust hose to a muffler then overboard (Generally speaking)

Some seaweed can get caught up in here (Saltwater side) as well as eel grasses. You can remove the end caps to blow out or jet away any foreign matter. (the end caps generally only open the saltwater side, be sure) You can also disconnect the Saltwater hoses and back flush with a garden hose and clear it out that way. A good check for restriction of Saltwater flow is to disconnect the saltwater hose coming from the Heat Exchanger To the Exhaust manifold. Where the hose connects, rust seems to squeeze the hole shut. Being gentle, scribe out any loose rust and/or foreign matter that has lodged itself in this area. Easily blow or jet some water thru this area to make sure all is clear.

Note: Generally, all that happens in the Heat Exchanger is that things get caught up in it, restricting flow…all we want is to clear it up so the heat exchanged from the Freshwater to the Saltwater happens faster, cooling the Freshwater down even further. Remember to check that exhaust manifold connection…if the saltwater gets restricted there, it keeps your freshwater hotter…and we don't want that…we want it to flow thru unobstructed!

Note: With this area done correctly, your Freshwater should come out of the Heat Exchanger cooler so it can pick-up more engine heat, keeping your engine cooler.

Engine Water pump (freshwater):

Your Engine Water pump is usually an integral part of the engine. It bolts on and off, but still check around the gasket areas for leakage. There is really no serviceable parts and all this pump does is circulate the Freshwater (water/antifreeze mix) around the engine to pick-up heat. It goes back to the Heat exchanger to transfer the heat to the Saltwater, and then back around the engine again. There is a weep hole (small little hole) under and behind the water pump pulley. If you see this leaking at all, replace it. When the Engine is off, see if you can take a flashlight and find the weep hole… Sometimes there will be staining which tells you it does leak…change it, it will only get worse. Also, if the Engine Water pump is many years old, the metal impeller inside can be worn. This will slow down the movement of the Freshwater around the engine. It would be a good idea to change it…If it is that old, its' days are numbered.

Note: The Engine Water pump is a straight forward engine component. No water weeping from the hole, no water stains there, and the pump isn't that old…I think we're good here.

Thermostat:

Your Engine Thermostat is what regulates the Engine Temperature. You can get Thermostats at different temperatures, but get the one rated for your Engine.

An old Thermostat will be sluggish, causing the Engine temperature to usually stay high. A sticky Thermostat will cause Overheating. No Thermostat at all will cause the Engine to Run Hot or Overheat, because the water is passing thru to quickly to pick-up any heat. At idle it will be fine (but too cool), but at higher speeds and rpms, the water will be zooming thru…Too Fast. Get a good brand Thermostat installed, rated for the proper temperature and your set.

Note: With the right Thermostat, you can't go wrong. You want your Engine temperature to be regulated at the proper temperature.

Antifreeze: Here the proper mixture of water and Antifreeze is essential. This allows optimum capture of heat (a high transfer rate). Check the Engine Manufacturers specs.

*Final Note: There are other things that affect the Engine temperature such as Engine Ignition Timing, wrong Prop size, clogged or internally cracked Manifolds…etc. But going over these basics areas will either fix or help you narrow down your problem. Plus you get to learn more about your Engine Cooling System!

Happy Boating!

About the Author

For any help on used boats for sale, check out the info available online; these will help you learn to find the used and new boats for sale!

I have a ford 2.3T in a 1989 mustang with a few mods and 3" exhaust.?

My question is will you help me decide which would be better. A tubular header or log manifold? The header costs more but they flow close to the same numbers.
These are the mods so it would be easier for you to help out.

1989 mustang lx.
1987 thunderbird 2.3T engine (fresh rebuild) 190 hp stock.
35# injectors
large VAM
65mm throttlebody
tc intercooler
garrett tc turbocharger.48/.60
3.73:1 gears
5 spd trans (was auto)
16x8 ROH wheels
gillis boost control set at 20 psi

future will have a fmic with a holset hx35 or t3/t4 50 trim. 52 lb/hr injectors and bamafuel engine management. I am deciding to get either the 40 bob manifold or stinger tubular header.

I would go with the tubular header,check the links at these groups,

I'm wondering what air meter and computer your running? stock 89?

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