Turbo High Flow

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Turbo High Flow
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Myth #1 - If I install a 4" turbo back exhaust I will lose all my low end torque.

This is one of those subjects with questions we get almost daily. It takes several forms:

- I read on the internet forums that you will lose all your low end power if you install a 4" turbo back exhaust.

- My friend installed an exhaust on his truck and now it doesn't have the same power it did on take off.

- A diesel engine needs backpressure and if you open the exhaust up too much it will hurt my engine.

- A diesel engine needs back pressure and if I open up the exhaust I will lose power.

Due to the relative low cost of a turbo back exhaust, and the amount of diesel owners looking for a little more power, this is a very popular subject. First things first, a turbocharged diesel engine does not need so much as pound of back pressure after the turbo to perform perfectly. In fact, the less restriction after the turbo, the better. You have to understand that between the exhaust port on the head and the inlet of the turbocharger there is usually back pressure of at least equal if not more than boost pressure on the engine at all times. Any back pressure the engine needs for proper function is provided before the turbo, period. Pressure on the outlet side of the turbo just leads to higher exhaust gas temps. When we install a

four or five inch turbo back exhaust system, we see several things. First is usually a large drop in exhaust gas temperatures. A 100-300 degree or more drop is not uncommon. Second is an increase in fuel mileage. If the engine doesn't have to work to push the spent exhaust gasses out of the tail pipe (we learned in the first article that an engine is nothing more than an air pump), it can use that horsepower to help turn the flywheel and transfer more power to the ground. And third, we will usually see somewhere between 15-30 rear wheel horsepower increase on the dyno when upgrading from a completely stock exhaust.

So what about the internet forums, your buddy, or even you that noticed less performance of the line after installing a high flow diesel exhaust system? Well, you're not crazy and your buddy isn't a liar. The reason for the low end loss on some trucks is from a loss in exhaust gas temps. A turbocharger is driven by pressure and heat. The hotter the exhaust gas, the more it will expand and drive the turbo. If we install a free flowing exhaust that lowers those temperatures, we will see slightly slower spool up all things being equal. Where there was a restriction in the stock exhaust before that caused the exhaust gas temps to be higher at all times, now the temps drop quickly and they have to warm up before the turbo will spool fast again. Is this a huge deal? No.

Most people who have added some sort of programmer that increases low end fueling will never notice it. Also, this slower spool up is more noticeable on standard transmission trucks than automatics due to being able to operate in lower rpm ranges at will. Also, this "loss in low end torque" is usually only noticeable when the truck is cold or has sat idling for a few minutes. Once the engine reaches normal operating temperatures, you should never notice it at all. What you should notice is increased horsepower, increased fuel mileage, and lower exhaust gas temps.

John Anderson

Little Power Shop

[http://www.littlepowershop.com]

1-877-227-0823

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does a high flow cat reduce fuel consumption on turbo motors?

I own a Subaru 2.5 XT a very thirsty beast around town. Does any body have any ideas on how to improve economy (apart from the obvious). I am leaning towards a high flow exhuast system, would this work??

Answer number knows his stuff concerning the probable effect the high-flow exhaust will have on your fuel economy. It just won't help. My experience is that it will hurt because the performance increase is noticable and I used it. Extra flow in the exhaust means that the turbo will spin-up sooner and you go faster and sooner using even more fuel. I guess the trick is to keep your foot out of it.

...but there are many things you can do to improve your ecomony that are "apart from the obvious."

Obvious things like? tire pressure, tune-ups, driving habits, air-conditioner, windows, speed control, vehicle weight, fuel options. None of these are obvious to everyone.

Let's cover them just in case.

Tire pressure: flexing rubber requires energy, energy in the form of gasoline. less flexing or easier-to-flex rubber reduces this energy requirement. lighter weight, lower speeds, low-rolling-resistance tires, and sufficient pressure all help.

Tune-ups: this could help anyone; a fat, well-timed spark into well atomized fuel mixed at the proper ratio air is all you're shooting for. tune-ups focus on these.

Driving Habits: drive less, drive less often, drive slower, drive smarter and don't try to maintain speed up-hill, use your brakes as sparingly as necessary (?*) use cruise control on flat terrain.
All of these are obvious (*except for the brakes...why?) When two different drivers go from point a to point b, one uses little or no braking and the other uses a lot. The one who used a lot of braking had to generate the forward motion to brake with energy derived from fuel. The one who didn't, didn't.

Air-conditioner. any time the air-conditioner compressor is running, it's costing you gas. The smaller and more efficient your engine is, the more (proportionately) it takes. If you're only getting 18 mpg or less anyways, you probably won't miss or even be able to see the effect the compressor drag will cause at highway speeds, especially in comparison to the increased drag having the windows open will cause. If your car is small (like your very stylish Subaru XT) you will notice the difference. Pronounced in town but still noticable at highway speeds.

I covered vehicle weight with tires but added hill climbing inefficiencies exist when vehicle is unnecessarily heavy. These can be compensated by letting your vehicle slow as it climbs and accelerate as it decends.

Windows...I covered with the air-conditioner...kinda. If you have the option, your car is a little more aerodynamic with the windows rolled up than down. [Probably the second most obvious of the bunch.]

Fuel options. A Turbo powered vehicle can compress a little more fuel-air mixture safely when it's burning premium rather than regular. They have about the same BTU of energy but the premium can take more compression before pre-igniting. Some turbo cars just make you burn premium, some have a switch, some just use a knock sensor. I mention this because regular is cheaper. Sometimes it will get the same mileage, some cars will severely retard ignition when switched to regular either with switch or knock sensor. Test it both ways. If it says to always burn premium, do so.

ok, what you can do to improve ecomony by adding hardware...

The subaru is already very efficient (weight, aerodynamics, engine) except for its gearing. You could do better with a 2wd cutout to reduce the "driven" wheels and amount of hardware you're turning in order to get down the road. This is a little impractical because it's expensive and you gain little (5-8 mpg) and you lose full-time 4wd. You could also do better with extra over-drive or slowing down your engine at highway speeds. (You can get much of this effect in town by just shifting sooner.) This also not very practical in a 4wd vehicle unless you can replace a factory gear set (or chain-sprocket set) somewhere in the drive-train between the engine and transmission. Check a 'Roo mechanic to see if one exists...these are VERY make/model specific. These can net you a substantial overall mpg gain depending on your driving style, the terrain you will drive on and the loads you carry.

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