Steel Muffler Accord

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Steel Muffler Accord
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I bought our Austin Healey at the end of 2005 to add to our classic car fleet. I have owned (and still own) a number of classic cars including an Austin Healey Sprite but this was our first foray into Big Healey ownership.

They are very robust cars based on a strong steel chassis with a fairly lightweight body, 3 litre engine with four speed gearbox with overdrive. They were raced and rallied to great effect in the 1950s and 1960s and one of the contributors to this success was their roadholding. The cars have fairly basic suspension based on a rigid axle and a pair of cart springs with lever arm dampers giving it a firm ride with very little body roll and are fairly low to the ground. Herein lay my problem.

Ever since I bought the car the exhaust pipe, which runs under the rear chassis rails and the rear axle, drags on the gravel as I drive from our house onto the road. The exhaust also catches on the ever increasing number of speed bumps that seem to be reproducing almost of their own accord. On one occasion while our Healey was out on hire, the customer obviously hit something fairly low and broke one of the exhaust brackets. The car came back from the hire with the exhaust held onto the rear bumper by a twisted wire coat hanger.

After replacing the damaged bracket I checked with a local Austin Healey specialist to see if there was a way or raising the ride height. His answer was no, but if we wanted to race the Healey he could lower it for us. Not really helpful. I continued to soldier on assuming there was nothing I could do and this was just a feature of the car.

Then when we were on this year's MSA Euroclassic touring Spain and France in our E-Type Roadster I spoke to one of the Austin Healey drivers on the run and explained my problem. He said that his local specialist had actually managed to raise his Healey, rather than lower it, so it appeared it was possible, although he wasn't sure exactly what had been done. Unfortunately the company he used was some way from me so not very convenient. On one of my trips to AH Spares I mentioned my dilemma, armed with the knowledge that a fix was possible. He said that the problem was probably just old, soggy springs and that replacing them with a new set should return the ride height to normal. The cost of these wasn't excessive and fitting them within my technical capabilities.

Four weeks ago I collected a pair of new springs and a complete set of fixings, U bolts, bump stops etc. Over the subsequent weekends I removed the old springs and fitted the new ones. While under the car I noticed one other small problem which may have been a contributing factor. The rubber bump stops bolt onto the top of the axle and as the suspension moves the bump stops hits metal boxes bolted to the underside of the wheel arches. Sounds fine in principle but the metal box is hollow and over the years, both of them appeared to have taken a bit of a pounding and the bottom of the boxes had bent upwards, by at least 1 cm.

I unbolted the boxes and hammered them back to the right shape. There was some rust in the bottom of the boxes which had probably contributed to them weakening over the years. Clearly a design flaw, there were no holes in them for rain water to drain away, so no wonder they rusted, but as they now had rust holes there was no need to drill holes to correct the omission. I assumed that the weakened boxes would again bend over time so packed them with pieces of wood cut to the right size. This should be firm enough to stop the boxes being crushed again, while soft enough to absorb some of the shock of being bit by the bump stop.

Assembly complete, I told the car out on a road test. It passed the very first 'gravel test' as it didn't drag on the gravel when leaving the drive. Road holding felt fine, no obvious change and no bottoming out on rough roads. I am sure the exhaust will still catch on speed humps and there is nothing I can do about that.

On the return to my garage I measured the ride height to see how much difference it had made. The car now stands a full 4 cm higher than before. So a couple of hundred pounds and a few days work and my problem of four years standing is now fixed.

Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 100 people over the past three years. Combining his 20 year background in sales and marketing with his knowledge of the classic car hire industry, in early 2008 Tony launched a new web portal Classic Car Hire World - listing classic and sports car hire companies around the world. Within three months of its launch this site acheived a Google PageRank of 4/10 and was showing on the first page of google.com when users searched for 'classic car hire'.

Tony also runs a sales and marketing consultancy concentrating on working with Small and Medium Enterprises (SME) in Warwickshire and the West Midlands, helping them grow their business and improve their profitability.

What Should You Know About Honda Power Tools

In accordance with Honda's recommendation, we are one of the few companies to make sure that their NEW Honda Generators are tested (PDI), before they are dispatched. Remove the NEW generator from the box, we start and test it. This is done to give you the confidence that, after receiving your order, you would not encounter any problems.

Control Panel: The NEW Honda Generators are equipped with a "Standard’ digital/LCD control panel. Included in this control panel are all the controls, safety devices and displays, which are required for operating it safely. Also displayed on the control panel are certain values or indicators. Illumination of the control panel is provided on almost all models.

Enclosures: Steel panels and locking doors on a modular structural base frame are used to build weather and soundproof enclosures. A rock-wool layer of insulation included in sound enclosures, accomplishes with the sound attenuating elements, and also complies with the prevailing regulations. A hot ambient air extraction fan is an additional element in the enclosures.

Silencers: Industrial type silencers, which are shipped loose, have been included in ‘Open set’ versions. Likewise, mounted critical type silencers, with a flexible connector, are included in ‘Enclosed’ versions. The Silencer/Muffler Product Option window helps in selecting ‘Critical’ silencers, which are optional on open sets and check out.

Fuel Tanks: An economical fuel use of 0.95 gallons at 1/2 load is another feature of the NEW model. On a full tank, the generator can run for over 105.3 hours. Product Options listed at hondageneratorstore also indicate the availability of single walled (non UL) and double walled (UL) tanks. The day tank, which is a normal provision, is removed in case base tanks have been added. To make the generator a complete operable unit, installation, fuel level gage and fuel line piping are included in tank prices. On special request, special tank versions, with stub up voids, can also be made available.

Transfer Switches: In these generator sets, it is the automatic transfer switch that effectively monitors utility and generator power. In the case of failure or unsatisfactory utility power, the generator set is started, the generator speed and voltage output are checked and the load is transferred to the generator set. As soon as utility power gets restored, the transfer switch automatically gets transferred back to utility power.

For optimum results, a transfer switch of either the same size, or a larger one, in amps than the building service or sub-panel should be selected. This has also to be borne in mind in the case of the relation between transfer switch and the maximum output of the generator that you have selected. Different types of fuel are required for running standby generators and portable generators. In some models, tri-fuel or dual-fuel configurations allow them to switch from natural gas or propane to gasoline, with the use of a hose. With this aspect in mind, a consumer should purchase a generator after determining the type of fuel that is available in his area.

There are no two ways about the fact that generator set is a piece of equipment that is worth every penny spent, and that it will easily run the whole house in case of utility power failure.

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Check out Honda generator review at http://www.hondageneratorstore.com/

Cadillac Catera 97, broken muffler?

Ok.. so i was going to buy this muffler but according to a friend was not the right one cause it has to look like this.. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d149/auctioncabin/IMG_0009-1.jpg (2 ins 2 outs)
so.. where can i find one of this mufflers? all i find does not look like this.. it looks just like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-98-CADILLAC-CATERA-EXHAUST-MUFFLER-PERFORMANCE-STEEL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b1061090QQitemZ170473689232QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

It's a lot easier to just go to a muffler shop ( do price comparisons first ) rather than trying to replace it yourself, especially if you don't have the correct equipment, like a welder

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