Manifold Left Side

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Manifold Left Side
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Recently  we featured an inspection of an industrial straight mast forklift. I had a lot of really good feedback and some very good questions.

I'm pleased to know that you find these guidelines helpful. Thanks to all of you that responded. And no Mike, you're right, I didn't always wear my safety belt when I operated a forklift, but I do now.

This month, let's tackle a boom lift.

Aerial lift equipment inspections and pre shift inspection routines have become extremely important. With the cost of insurance and the difficulty finding good quality employees, the last thing you want to see happen is one of your key production people get injured due to an oversight of a safety inspection. The subject of safety is an ongoing responsibility to everyone involved in the operation of aerial equipment or at least in this case, boom lifts.

Not only should an inspection be done at the time of purchase of that used boom but really every time that equipment is used, someone (preferably the operator) should take a few minutes to check out the machine and all of its safety functions to make sure everything is ship shape.

The reason I'm spending a little more time and focus on this subject aside from the pre purchase inspection is that aerial lift equipment by its very nature is very dangerous if not used properly. Anytime you put a worker up in the air, the potential for accidents is compounded.

The best way to avoid an accident is to stop it before it happens. What do they say? An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? Anyway, let's inspect that boom lift.

First, just like the forklift, we'll start with the engine. Gas or diesel, lets check the oil - check oil level, color of the oil, does it look thick and dirty or is it fresh. Run it through your fingers to see the consistency of the oil. Are there any grit or dirt particles in it? How about the smell? Burnt or does it have that fresh oil smell? Remember a milky or watery coloring on a water-cooled unit could be a sign of a leaking head gasket, or other cooling problem. How is the wiring? Does it look like some  one has been working on it or used different colored wires in the harness or around the engine? Start the engine. Make sure you check all engine functions. High speed and/or choke solenoid if equipped. Also make sure the machine runs from both lower and upper controls. All fuctions should work in both upper and lower controls (the drive function will not work in lower controls due to safety reasons).

Okay, enough about the engine. Let's check around the hydraulic pump and the valve body. Check for any leaks. Just by nature of its function, there may be a little hydraulic fluid in the manifold or valve body area but for the most part, there should not be an obvious leak or any dripping of oil. Check the hose fitting and hoses themselves. Are they free of kinks, cracks, and leakage?

When we check the machine functions, we will listen to any noises coming from the hydraulic system.

Moving on to the structure of the machine. Aerial lift equipment is particularly susceptible to cracking of pivot point areas due to the incredible load placed on these points. Check carefully at the places where boom arms come together, where pins and bushings are used. These are high stress areas; make sure you check them for cracks or abnormal wear. Look down the boom arm - can you see the wear pads? What condition are they in? Next, let's move on to the basket assembly. Make sure the rails are not cracked, broken, or bent (too badly). Look at the weldment where the boom and basket come together. Is the basket connection free of cracks, missing bolts or other obvious maladies? You don't want that basket to fall off when you're 40', 60', 80' in the air!

Now lets check for play in the turret assembly. With the basket off the ground a foot or so, just gently move the basket from side to side, checking the play of the main turret gear or slue ring, there should be some movement but only about 6-10". Check your manufacturers service manual for the recommended play in this major component.

Lastly, inspect the wheels. Make sure the lug nuts look tight, the alignment of the wheels look correct, you don't want your machine to look like one of those VW bug desert machines.

We need to inspect the machines safety switches. The limit switch is located on the boom arm and keeps the drive function in slow - When the boom is above the horizontal position.

Make sure you check all functions of the equipment to verify proper operation of each component and to confirm that the unit works in a smooth and safe manner.

Check the operator's manual for any other safety related items that should be checked for correct operation and function. Before purchasing the equipment and BEFORE you start your shift.

When a machine such as a boom lift is left on a job for any period of time, it's always a good idea to check and make sure there was not some unauthorized use and that the operator didn't manipulate or disengaged the safety equipment in such a way that might cause you or your co-workers potential harm.

Aerial lift equipment can be dangerous if some common sense is not used in its operation.

Always check the manufacturers safety manual (each machine should have one) for the proper and safe operation of this equipment, before you buy and before each use.

I hope  this information  has been  helpful  and  you will find  the machine that fits the application and your job.

Todd R. Moir is the owner and principal broker of equipwholesale and has been in the equipment industry since 1975. Working in the equipment rental industry gave Todd a solid background in how to buy and sell construction equipment. Contact him at todd@equipwholesale.com or at http://www.equipwholesale.com

TO PEX OR NOT TO PEX? THAT IS THE QUESTION

As promised now a discussion of what I believe to be the most controversial form of plumbing piping on the market today…PEX (or crosslinked polyethylene). I say controversial based on the many discussion groups and forums that I read. PEX is discussed probably 10 times more often than any other form of plastic or metal piping as part of a water supply piping system even though it has several advantages over metal pipe (copper, iron, lead) or rigid plastic pipe (PVC, CPVC, ABS) systems. Some local codes aren’t allowing it for whole house systems and I believe, in general, it is the public’s lack of knowledge on the product that has caused most of the controversy.
PEX tubing is made from crosslinked HDPE (high density polyethylene) polymer. The HDPE is melted and continuously extruded into tube. PEX plumbing has been in use in Europe since about 1970, and was introduced in the U.S. around 1980. The use of PEX has been increasing ever since, replacing copper pipe in many applications, especially radiant heating systems installed in the slab under floors or walkways. Interest in PEX for hot and cold water plumbing has increased recently in the United States which I believe also contributes to the questions and discussions I read.

Advantages of PEX
1. Plumbing PEX plumbing installations cost less because:
o PEX is less expensive than copper pipe.
o Less time is spent running pipe and installing fittings than with rigid pipe systems.
o Installing fewer fittings reduces the chances for expensive callbacks.
2. Flexible PEX can be shipped and stored on spools, where rigid plastic or metal piping must be cut to some practical length for shipping and storage. This leads to lower shipping and handling costs .
3. PEX requires fewer fittings than rigid piping.
4. It can turn 90 degree corners without the need for elbow fittings.
5. PEX tubing unrolled from spools can be installed in long runs without the need for coupling fittings.
6. PEX tube fittings do not require soldering, and so the health hazards involved with lead-based solder and acid fluxes are eliminated. This makes it safer to install since no torch is needed to make connections..
7. PEX resists the scale build-up common with copper pipe, and does not pit or corrode when exposed to acidic water.
8. PEX is much more resistant to freeze-breakage than copper or rigid plastic pipe.
9. PEX tubing does not transfer heat as readily as copper, and so conserves energy.
10. Water flows more quietly through PEX tube, and the characteristic "water hammer" noise of metal pipe systems is virtually eliminated.
11. PEX can be used in combination with metal or other plastic piping and is currently most often used as connectors on existing system when old lines must be replaced in an existing system.
12. Each supply line typically has a shut off line in place for repair convenience
13. Pex is available In colors making easier to color code your plumbing system or easily identify hot and cold pipes.
14. A “manifold” system can be made as a part of the PEX installation allowing better segregation of hot and cold lines and better regulation of pressure.

Disadvantages of PEX:
1. It cannot be used outside and can become damaged if even left outside (as are many plastics its very susceptible to ultraviolet) for any long period of time
2. It has a shorter life expectancy and thus does not provide an option to recycle.
3. PEX has an impermeable membrane that may allow the possibility of contaminating your water. Oxygen barrier versions of PEX can be had at additional expense (30% more) to overcome this issue and would be required if you used PEX in radiant floor heating applications
4. Even though it is easier to install it is a more difficult initial installation for the untrained.

Well there it is folks, my take on the PEX controversy. Cheaper, easier to install, less chance of freezing and many more advantages than disadvantages but somehow, to me, just smacks of CHEAP. Is it better than PVC? You bet! Is it better than copper as far as long lasting and known value? No Chance.
Next time and overall discussion of other metallic and plastic options including the perennial favorite PVC.

About the Author

Im a retired disabled accountant with vast knowledge in the DIY area having built several houses and worked on my own projects for 30+ years. I spend most of my days reading and responding to over 30 forums and discussion groups.
I currently author and manage a blog site for a friend's builder supply business. I include personally written articles on the subject of home and home repair along with featured specials on products offered by the company

engine is hard to start, when it does start it is running rich and only the drivers side manifold is hot.?

I HAVE A 1994 CHEVY ASTRO V-6 ENGINE. THE MUFFLER WAS BAD SO I CHANGED EVERYTHING FROM THE CONVERTER BACK. IT RAN OK FOR A DAY OR TWO, BUT I COULD TELL IT WAS RUNNING RICH. ASKING AROUND SOMEONE SAID THAT THE CONVERTER COULD BE CLOGGED. THE VAN SET FOR ABOUT TWO WEEKS, THEN IT WOULD CRANK BUT WOULD NOT START. I DISCONNECTED THE CONVERTER AT THE MANIFOLDS AND TRIED TO START IT. I COULD SEE IT WAS GETTING GAS IN THE CARB., AND I HAD SPARK ON THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR PLUG. I ALSO DISCONNECTED THE FUEL INJECTORS, THINKING IT MAY BE FLOODED. AT THAT TIME I SPRAYED STARTING FLUID IN THE CARB AND IT SPUTTERED ALITTLE. I CONNECTED THE INJECTORS BACK UP AND AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPS IT STARTED BUT I COULD TELL IT WAS NOT RUNNING ON ALL SIX CYLINDERS. I SHUT IT OFF AND GOT UNDERNEATH, UPON LOOKING AT THE EXHAUST MAINFOLDS. THE RIGHT SIDE (PASS) WAS LEAKING RAW GAS AND WAS COLD. THE LEFT SIDE (DRIVERS) WAS HOT. I'M AT A LOSS NOW DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO NEXT.

check the injectors they are in the throttle body i see a lot if them with the wires shorting where the hight adaptor sits on them move them so they dont rub if the injector is still running rich replace it you can see the extra fuel compare it with the other one

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