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Understanding the marine diesel engine cooling system is a necessary part of marine diesel engine maintenance.

Raw Water Cooling

Flexible impeller pumps provide an efficient solution to most raw water pumping needs. The primary advantage of a flexible impeller pump is that it is self-priming, which means that when the vanes of the impeller are depressed and rebound, they create their own vacuum, drawing fluid into the pump. A dry pump can lift water up to as much as three meters. Thus a flexible impeller pump being used for engine cooling does not need to be manually primed or located below the water line. An added feature of a flexible impeller pump is that it can pass fairly large solids without clogging or damaging the pump. This reduces the need for filtration of incoming fluids.

For general or fresh water applications, a standard long lasting neoprene rubber impeller is used.

A general feature of all flexible impeller pumps is that they cannot be permitted to run dry for more than 30 seconds. Both the impeller and the seals require water for lubrication and will soon burn out if run dry. Parts that start to show wear are easily replaceable and service kits are readily available for most models.

Fresh Water Cooling

For circulation of the internal, closed, fresh water circuit of the cooling system it is common to use a flexible rubber pump if it is located on the cold side of the system (max. 55°C). Other types of belt-driven centrifugal pumps are also used. The closed circuit normally transfers heat from the engine to the heat exchanger. The liquid used is water and anti-freeze.

Cooling Capacity

The required output of the cooling pump is related to engine type and size, not to the size of the heat exchanger and exhaust system. This is true for both raw water as well as fresh water handling systems.

Temperature Regulators (Thermostats)

Thermostats are usually placed in the outlet at the top of the cylinder head to prevent the coolant from moving to the header tank until the marine engine has nearly reached operating temperature.

There are different types of thermostats, the most common being the wax pellet type. The capsule on the lower part of the thermostat has a mixture of wax and copper (to increase the thermal conductivity) sealed in it. As the coolant temperature increases, the wax expands and forces a rod to open the poppet valve at the top of the thermostat, which allows the coolant to circulate.

Cooling system checks

• To test your thermostat, boil a pot of water and drop in the thermostat. (The water must be 100°C--the thermostat usually opens at 85°C.) If the thermostat opens it is okay. If it doesn't open, replace or clean carefully as they can become sticky with deposits. Yanmar thermostats can and should be regularly serviced. Some thermostats cannot be serviced.
• If the thermostat doesn't work, do not remove it and run the engine without it, as the engine will run cold and tight. You can drill a series of 1/4Ë holes to give equivalent flow to an open thermostat. This will get you home, but you must then replace it. Be careful not to fit thermostat upside down.
• Thermostat housings often corrode and need to be replaced. Some can be fabricated.
• The cooling system should be checked after 100 hours running, or at least once each season, for leakage, deposits, etc.
• The thermostat can be taken out of the housing on the front of the engine.
• The heat exchanger core should be removed bi-annually for cleaning and inspection.
• Many heat exchangers are fitted with anodes to protect the expensive core. Check regularly.
• Check all hoses and clamps regularly.

Replacing the sea-water pump impeller

The pump impeller is made of neoprene rubber and this can be damaged in the case of water deficiency if, for example, the sea-water intake should be blocked. The pump impeller is changed as follows:

1. Remove the cover from the sea-water pump. Note that there is the risk of water getting into the boat. With the help of two screwdrivers pull the shaft with the pump impeller out of the housing as far as necessary to reach the bolt retaining the impeller. Place some kind of protection under the screwdrivers in order not to damage the impeller housing. Alternatively, using channel-lock pliers, slide jaws between blades of impeller, rotate and withdraw.
2. Pull the impeller off the shaft. Clean the inside of the pump housing and fit the new impeller. Always have a spare impeller on board.
3. Check that the pump coupling is not damaged, by trying to turn the pump impeller. Fit the cover with the original gasket, which has the right thickness.

Check out the impeller trouble shooting guide to discover how to repair and replace a sea water pump impeller. Did you know that if you understand the basics of marine diesel engine maintenance you can service your own marine engine and save on maintenance costs? Every boat owner should have at least a minimum understanding of their marine engine. Keep your family safe on the water, find out how to service your marine diesel engine yourself and know that it is properly maintained. Learn which spare parts you absolutely must carry on board your boat and discover how to make emergency boat repairs on the water.

Exhaust headers help conserve the engine power

While the engine generates the power to drive the car it also has to generate the power to drive itself. The more power it requires to drive itself the less power is left to drive the car. Therefore car aftermarket products that help reduce the power required to run the engine help improve the car’s performance.

A lot of the engine’s power is consumed in driving the piston in and out of the cylinders. In the power stroke where the fuel is ignited there is energy generated for this. But in the next stroke where the exhaust gases are thrown out the engine needs to consume power.

Exhaust headers help reduce the power required to throw out exhaust gases. An exhaust header assists in taking away the exhaust gases quickly from a multi cylinder engine. How does it do that? To understand that we need to understand briefly how a multi cylinder engine works.

In a multi cylinder engine in each cylinder fuel is burnt and then the exhaust gases from the cylinder are thrown out. The exhaust gases from all the cylinders reach an exhaust manifold. The manifold is like a gathering place for the exhaust gases.  However this is where the problem of back pressure rears its head. Since there are several cylinder sending gases to the exhaust manifold there are usually some gases already in the manifold when gases from another cylinder try to get there. The gases already in the manifold offer resistance and this creates the back pressure.

Exhaust headers offer an elegant solution to get rid of this crowding of the exhaust gases. Each cylinder has its dedicated exhaust pipe which carries the exhaust gases to a larger collector pipe. The dedicated exhaust pipes of all the cylinders are of the same length so that the exhaust gases reach at the same time. This does away with the need to gather the exhaust gases in an exhaust manifold and reduces the back pressure. Reduced back pressure improves the engine performance.

If you are going for car aftermarket products such as high performance body kits you should also consider products such as exhaust headers that improve the car performance.

You can find the latest car aftermarket products at www.ilovebodykits.com

About the Author

Louie Liu has been in the car aftermarket products industry for 5years. He has specialized in body kits, headlights, cold air intakes and other aftermarket products. He has deep knowledge of a wide range of products including knowledge of benefits of body kits and other products, product options and how to choose a car aftermarket product. You can learn about a wide range of body kits and other car aftermarket products at his site www.ilovebodykits.com.

2000 Camaro SS. What do you think of my upgrades? What else should I do?

I'm going to put ALL this into a 2000 Camaro SS, what do you think of it?

-Procharger 8+ psi w/ D-1SC Supercharger
-K&N FIPK
-Hotchkis Sway Bar Kit 1” solid rear, 1 7/16” hollow front
-Holley Throttle Body Assembly 90 mm
-American Racing Vintage Torq-Thrust M Anthracite w/ Mach Lip Rims
-Pace Setter Long-Tube Headers 1 ¾” tubes 3” collector
-Magnaflow Cat-Back Exhaust System 3” tubing 3.5” tips
-Bosch Platinum 2 Spark Plugs
-Continental ExtremeContact DWS Tires
-KYB Rear Shocks
-Satisfied GranSport 6 Brake Pads
-Brembo GT 332 mm Big Brake Kit Style 3/D
-Body repainted to Blue Granite Metallic (2009 Chevy Tahoe)

What else do I NEED to do, or should do, to make this AT LEAST a 10 sec. car?

LOL at people suggesting a "4-link" suspension...ughhh.

...and fiberglass doors? Are you freakin' serious?

You're going to NEED injectors, the stockers won't cut it, 50#'s will do the trick. You're going to need to open up the heads a lot or get aftermarket ones, same with the cam..you'll want specs that are blower friendly. As buffman suggested you'll need a tune, pcm4less has done all of my tunes and tunes at the shop. Bryan knows his stuff. Platinum plugs and a blower is a big no-no. Stick with the proper NGK plugs and be done with it.

You're forgetting about a few major things too, suspension(and no, not a 4-link). You're going to need subframe connectors, a good torque arm(Spohn or UMI), lower control arms(again, Spohn or UMI) and most importantly a cage if you want to stay track legal. Also, kiss that weak, junk 10-bolt goodbye. They break under stock power let alone a boosted motor.

I would seriously check out ls1tech.com and start reading the power adder board, there are so many different combos you can go with, so many ways of doing things....I'd suggest there, you have people here telling you to swap to a 4 link and that 10 second cars have no business being on the street(no idea where that guy is from but here near Philly that is the norm, home of REAL racers)....no really sound advice.

Breakaway safety cables for route-based vibration monitoring
IMI Sensors announced breakaway safety cables designed to protect technicians and their equipment from being pulled into rotating machinery during route-based vibration monitoring.

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