Exit Muffler Cheap

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Exit Muffler Cheap
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Marine exhausts systems are an important and often overlooked part of a marine engine. Most vessels have a 'wet' exhaust system. Salt water is injected at the riser - the outlet for exhaust from the exhaust manifold. This mixture of exhaust gas and water is then passed through a series of bends until it exits the boat, preferably at the stern.

Exhaust gases mixed with salt water create a highly corrosive compound. This is why exhaust systems are commonly made using non-corrosive components such as nitrile rubber reinforced hose (brown - not green - stripe), galvanized steel, fiberglass or plastic. The purpose of these components, which vary in size and shape depending on the engine size and layout of the engine room, is to prevent hydraulicing of the engine. This is caused when an engine has filled with salt water which has entered via the exhaust and can cause extensive damage if left for more than two hours. Water enters the exhaust from wave action at stern and poor exhaust design. In some ocean conditions, such as a following sea, water can be forced back up the exhaust when the engine is not running. Poorly designed exhausts allow water to flow back and fill the waterlock/muffler box then up the hose into the exhaust manifold, through the exhaust valves and into the combustion chamber. With the engine full of water the engine cannot crank over as it is cannot compress water.

You will know your engine is hydrauliced if it will not turn over - generally after a long sailing period - and you have removed the starter motor and ensured it works. To remove water from inside the combustion chambers, first remove all injectors, crank engine over to blow water out, refit injectors, bleed injector lines, and start. Then leave motor running until exhaust sorted out.

Check to see that the riser is not coked up or corroded - a common problem. To check the exhaust riser remove the exhaust hose from the riser (often a difficult procedure) and look up the pipe to see if it is restricted by exhaust/salt build up. If build up is excessive the riser will have to be removed to check the engine end of the pipe. Coke can be scraped out to provide a short term fix although often the riser will have to be replaced. There are aftermarket systems which vary in quality. Make sure you fit the right design for the application.

Ensure your water-lock is low enough and big enough to hold all the water in exhaust system. Is there a gooseneck or central vertical loop in the exhaust hose at the transom exit? Is there a siphon break and is it functioning properly - no leaking valves?

Exhaust gas is poisonous and can cause sea sickness and headaches. Replace any faulty parts immediately. Use double hose clamps on each joint or, preferably, super clamps, bolt style, and exhaust cement if need be. Hot sections should be lagged with fiberglass tape to prevent burns.

Beware of asbestos lagging. Many older vessels and marine engine installations had exhaust systems that were lagged with asbestos tape and rope. Asbestos sound-proofing was also common in older boats.

Chris Miley is an online author and a keen boater. He maintains the website Marine Diesel Secrets and the Pontoon Boat Site. Visit his websites for more boating and marine engine information.

Convert Your Engine to Run on Water

You can convert to run your car on water. You will join the group of happy people where no one complains about high cost of fuel. Water is a free and cheap resource and almost available anywhere.  You can fetch water from your tap at home and then fill your car with it. The process of converting your car into a water-based engine is simple. You will fix a converter, which is a kit that extracts gas from water. Now you will be able to cut down on your fuel bills and go more miles for your money. You will additionally prolong the lifespan of your engine. This technology works in a very simple way.

Take water from the cooling system and route it through a ¼" copper tube wound tightly around the intake multiple runners. Then provide a return to the cooling system. You must choose the pick-up and return points to provide a pressure differential. The water will circulate through the tubing rather than just sitting there. A similar approach can be taken with exhaust gas. Install a pipe fitting in a high pressure area in the exhaust manifold, near the head and conduct the hot gas through a ½" copper tube to the intake manifold. Braze the tubing to the intake manifold runners and then connect the tubing into a low-pressure area of the exhaust system, preferably below the muffler. You may wish to pick up exhaust gas at several points with several tubes from the exhaust manifold. Alternatively, route the copper tubes inside the manifold runners. The tubes must run continuously through the manifold so that no coolant or exhaust gas is cycled into the fuel mixture. Drill holes for tubing entrance and exit and after installing the tubes, braze the holes shut.

The advantage of this variant is that heat is available to vaporize the fuel mixture quickly whereas the disadvantage is that the tubes reduce the volume of fuel mixture flow to the engine, thereby reducing power at full throttle. If your car has a water heated intake manifold, it may be possible to increase the flow of hot water through the manifold heater. This can be done by increasing the size of the water entrance and exit ports. Also, installing a thermostat will help. This also improves fuel vaporization within the combustion chamber. Most engines have a heat-riser control valve. You may be able to modify the controls on it to increase manifold heating. Above all, make sure that the valve is working properly. Often it gets rusty and sticks in one position. Many engines today have a thermostatic control or flapper valve on the air filter intake, to admit hot air under certain circumstances. You can adjust the control to provide hot air to the carburetor more of the time. Then fill in the gaps. Write down the specific changes you will make to the fuel and ignition systems. Devise a plan for cold starting and raising the compression ratio that best suits your engine.

After the engine gets converted, repeat the tests you did in preparation for conversion. And don't be afraid to keep tinkering. A little alteration here and there may improve performance a lot.

 

About the Author

To find out more about using water to run your car and get a free question and answer report please visit www.RunCar-OnWater.com

what are some small mufflers?

I am building a exhaust for a v8 Fiero. The exhaust needs to exit out the two holes in the rear bumper. I am having a hard time finding anything I like other than 2 12" glasspacks. I already have the exhaust running into a cat and now I need to go from a 3" pipe into the mufflers. Any other Ideas? I'm looking for cheap also. Do not tell me Glasspacks loose glass over time. Some people are just idiots. I promise that no one who has said this about glass packs has ever taken one out of a car thats used it installed right for 10 years and cut it open. ITS A MYTH and was started by know it alls trying to say what they use is better.

When we run into this type of problem we just either take the vehicle to our exhaust shop or just go in person and sort through what they have and 99 percent of the time they will have what we need and this is what you should do as well.....

Try finding a independent shop that will spend some time with you instead of some type of chain store that will try and sell the moon..

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