Hole Flanges Gasket

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Hole Flanges Gasket
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If your toilet is old and in need of repairs, it is cheaper to replace it by installing a new one. This is quite easy to do and can be completed in an afternoon. However, if you plan to install a toilet in a new location, you will have to extend supply pipes and drainpipes to the desired spot, a job you may want to leave to a plumbing contractor.

Most toilets are sold with the necessary gaskets, washers, and hardware for fitting the tank to the bowl. However you might need to buy a few parts. Here is a list of what you need to complete this task:

Parts: Toilet bowl, Toilet tank, Toilet seat, Two 1/4" bolts for bowl to flange, Wax ring, 20" water supply with fitting at valve or floor connection and Tools: Pair of channel pliers, bucket, screw driver.

(Many of these can be ordered online at any DIY website such as DIY Tips UK: [http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/plumbing])

1. Shut off the water to the toilet, use a bucket and a cloth or a sponge to remove the water left in tank and bowl after you flush the toilet.

2. Using a pair of channel pliers, or a small pipe wrench (8"), remove the nut where the water line fastens to the ballcock valve under the left side of the bottom of the tank. Next use a small crescent wrench, remove the two 1/4" nuts holding the bowl to the floor flange. Remove old toilet. Remove the water line from the valve or fitting at floor or wall.

3. Now you are ready to install your new toilet. Put the two 1/4" bolts in the side holes of the flange with the bolt head in the flange. Put some of the old wax at this spot to hold the bolts straight up and across from each other. Put new wax ring on flange, flat side up if tapered.

4. Set new bowl only straight down so it centers on wax ring and both bolts come through holds on each side of bowl. Sit on bowl facing wall until your weight puts bowl flush with the floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over-tighten as you can crack the bowl. Tighten these again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.

5. Next put 2" rubber gasket on tank where it sets on the bowl, put rubber washers on bolts provided under the bolt head so they will be on the inside of the tank. Pick up tank and set on bowl over holes in bowl where bolts go through. Sit on bowl facing wall. Put bolts on from the inside of the tank into holes in bowl, put on metal washers and nuts and tighten. Hold tank level and tighten so it brings tank down level. Use a large screw driver inside tank and a crescent wrench or end wrench to back up nut under bowl. Tighten with screw driver. Hook water supply to tank, turn on water, check for leaks, and snug up the bolts holding bowl to floor. If there is a space between the back of the tank and the wall, put a spacer of sort there to brace tank. A piece of wood or hard rubber works fine.

Maintenance:

At least twice a year clean out the inside of your toilet tank. When cleaning the toilet tank, turn off the water, flush toilet once, add small amount of cleaning detergent inside tank to water remaining and use a cloth or brush to clean. Also clean out holes under toilet seat and rim of the bowl as well as the 3/4" hole in the bottom of toilet bowl. Replace rubber tank ball at this time if needed. Maintaining your new toilet will keep the plumber away and reduce your plumbing bill.

Copyright © 2005. Bridget Mwape writes for DIY Tips UK: http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/ which features how-to articles and products to help you with your DIY and home improvement projects. This article may be reprinted as long as all the above links are active and clickable and this author box (byline) is not edited.

Learn About Sailboat Engine Gearbox Reconditioning In The Flange

One small problem we encountered was how to get the four coupling bolts back into their respective holes once in position. They had wriggled out after some difficulty when removing the gearbox and we worked on the premise that what came out must go back in. However, on re-assembly the angle was so acute, there was no way they would line up sufficiently to access the holes in the gearbox coupling flange from the forward engine side.

Well, as predicted, the best laid plans very often get interrupted - and so it is with our schedule for having the gearbox back into Patricks' yacht by this Saturday. Our gearbox expert Barry has completed the reconditioning and we have it back with us now. However, due to unforeseen circumstances we are unable to fit it this weekend and have put it back to Wednesday this coming week.

Barry, of 'Marine Gearbox Services' is one of the very few and fast disappearing doyens of marine gear box maintenance, repair and reconditioning. With many years of experience under his belt there is no marine gearbox that he doesn't know inside out (excuse the pun) and never comes up short. His knowledge on all things gearbox is profound and being very particular in his approach you will always be assured of the best, and have complete confidence in his work.

He showed and explained to us exactly what was causing the problem of the boat slipping out of and back into gear from time to time and what parts were worn and needed replacing. It is not the purpose of this article to supply a fully detailed manual of the work that needed to be done, suffice to say that friction clutch plates (sintered bronze) and steels were worn, the selector fork was too slack as was the selector ring. All these parts to be replaced along with the bearings, and all seals and gaskets. Any other parts Barry considered needed to be replaced as he worked through the job would be.

Believe it or not, the Hurth gearbox does actually contain all those parts. It is difficult to believe that (a) that many bits are required for a simple forward and reverse gearbox and (b) they all fit into that limited space. It was a wise decision on our part to take it to the expert and not attempt to dismantle it ourselves. We had a very informative time with Barry and on coming away we wondered what will happen when all the Barrys' of this world stop their work - a rare breed indeed. In the meantime however, Barry is fully occupied with this work and not planning on giving it up any time soon.

Having admired the re-conditioned gearbox with its brand new coat of paint from all angles and following several false starts (colds, 'flu and strong winds, big chop in a dinghy) Patrick and I find ourselves back on board and fully prepared to re-install the gearbox.

Hunkering down into position in the cramped space we prepare for the long haul of heaving the box (heavy when you are kneeling in a cramped position and leaning forward) onto the engine bolts and then getting all the nuts and washers on and tightened correctly. My suggestion of going on through into the engine, removing the bearings and checking them was met with astonished incredulity! - they had been replaced previously and were fine, so my brand of humour was treated with the contempt it deserved!

The only alternative (after much debate) was to bolt them up from the aft side with a spacer under the bolt head. This was tried on one, but as the lock nuts are half as thick again as the bolt head, we felt the clearance from the gearbox casing was insufficient - it was down to 1.5mm. In all probability this clearance was enough, but it looked way to fine for our liking and in its original position the clearance was around 3mm. What to do?

In the end it was quite simple - we obtained some shiny new locknuts which Patrick ground down on his workshop grinder, taking off 1.5mm from the underside.

Another dinghy trip out to the yacht saw us crunching down around the engine again and fitting the new nuts. Voila! they fitted perfectly, and with the additional spacer under the bolt head we now had 3mm. clearance between the nuts outer surface (the bolt end being flush with the lock nut) and the gearbox casing - looked much better, and along with peace of mind, it gave us confidence in a job well done.

All that remained now was to couple to the 'drive saver' and the shaft coupling and this was a breeze. The gear cable strut was then bolted back into position and the gear cable attached ensuring it was placed in its correct groove.

The moment of truth had arrived when it was time to start the engine and test that the gears would take up and operate correctly. With the engine on and running Patrick slipped it into the forward position - after a moments hesitation there was a satisfactory clunk and she was in gear - into neutral and into reverse - same clunk again and she was in reverse. Grins all round. Everything was working as it should so the kettle was put on and a sweeter cup of tea was never enjoyed more.

Patrick has just returned from a few days sail up the NSW coast and reports that when motoring the gears are working perfectly.

Lessons: With a little time and patience no job cannot be tackled on your own boat.

Never be afraid to consult with the experts - in this case it was Barry of Marine Gearbox Services.

When uncoupling the gearbox make sure you leave the four coupling flange bolts in position in the flange - this will overcome any problems when re-fitting.

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Rebuild on a dodge 318?

Much confusion with the intake gaskets @_@

We have a 5.2 318, and an old holley intake.

The gasket set we have has 5 gaskets. @_@

(the engine block is an 87, but its going into a 78 ramcharger.)

replacing the old 360 which threw a rod..

Sorry, anyhow.

gaskets.

Uh, we have 2 blue ones, with a kind of papery stuff on them, with all kinds of holes for water passages, which the block doesnt have.

two silver, aluminum ones, which do NOT have those extra water passages. only the holes the block has.

However, they have little flanges on them, which slip nicely into the blue gaskets.

Thirdly, we have an extra silver gasket for the passenger side, with a heavily restricted passage, in the CENTER hole. the big one..

So.. we're totally lost, and our book isn thelping us out.

Thanks!
Okay my bad, The intake is an EDELBROCK.

i used the blue ones on mine when i changed intakes they work very well,and you only have to torque them once,i never had any problems from them yet and they been on for over a year now,good luck.

2000 Ford Focus from North America - Comments
My daughter has a 2000 Ford Focus, just had the ignition switch fixed for the 2nd time in less than two years. Brakes replaced 3 times, 3 sets of tires replaced, leaking on passenger floorboard and cannot find the leak and now the airbag light has come on.

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